Sewing Jeans



sewing jeans
What is a good sewing machine for jeans and also affordable?!?

So i have a sewing machine but it always freaks out on me and my needles break like crazy.

All i really sew is jeans and i was looking for a tough sewing machine that is quite affordable. Any ideas??

Also, any ideas about needles that will work well with jeans?!

Thanks!

If it freaks out and breaks needles, chances are you’re trying to help the fabric under the presser foot. Quit it. Now. Guide the fabric, don’t haul it around. Support any excess fabric instead of letting it drip off the sewing table so the weight of the fabric doesn’t pull the work under the presser foot.

The other time you’re likely to break needles is when you’re trying to cross a thick seam, like the flat felled seams in jeans. To stop this, you need to keep the presser foot level as it moves over the previous seam — you can use several layers of fabric as a shim, or you can use something called a “hump jumper” or “jean-a-ma-jig” behind the presser foot to keep it level. $2-$3.

As far as needles go, I’d suggest a size 90/14 or 100/16 “jeans” or
“sharp” needle. Schmetz makes the ones labeled “jeans points”, but sharps from another brand will work almost as well. If you’re sewing on the sort of denim that stands up in the corner by itself, you may need a size 18 needle.

If the machine can sew through multiple layers of denim without you having to “walk” the needle by using the handwheel, it will sew jeans. If your machine has a wimpy motor, time to find one that will. Even if a cheap new machine is labeled as a “Jeans Machine” don’t fall for it… cheap new machines are expensive in the long run.

As far as machines go, an old Singer 15 or 66 or 99 or similar straight stitcher can be had at a lot of garage sales and thrift stores for under $20. Clean it up and oil it and put in a new needle and you’re good to go. This one has made many pairs of jeans over the years:
http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/20939529 — $10 at a garage sale, an hour to clean it up and oil it. I’ve grabbed plenty of other 99s and 15s and 66s off curbs the night before trash pickup and gotten them sewing again with a few hours’ work. Then I give ‘em away.

If you want to go fancier:

http://www.cet.com/~pennys/faq/smfaq.htm

What I want for beginners in sewing:

- a machine that doesn’t scare you
- a machine that isn’t balky (cheap new machines are often very
balky or need adjustments often and are rarely repairable –
just too frustrating to learn on!)
- very good straight stitch
- good zigzag (4-5 mm is fine, more than that is gravy)
- a method of making buttonholes that makes sense to you
- adjustable presser foot pressure (which helps some fabric
handling issues)
- accessory presser feet that don’t cost an arm and a leg
(machines that use a “short shank foot” typically handle
generic presser feet pretty well. Some brands of machines use
proprietary or very expensive presser feet)

If the budget stretches far enough:

- blindhem and stretch blindhem stitches
- triple zigzag (nice for elastic applications)
- a couple of decorative stitches (you won’t use them nearly as
much as you think)
- electronic machine because of the needle position control and
because the stepper motors give you full “punching force” at
slow sewing speeds — mechanical machines often will stall at
slow speeds.

Please go to the best sewing machine dealers around and ask them
to show you some machines in your price range, *especially* used
machines you can afford. You’ll get a far better machine buying
used than new, and a good dealer is worth their weight in sewing
machine needles when you get a machine problem — often they can
talk you through the problem over the phone. While you’re trying
things out, try a couple of machines (sewing only, not combo
sewing-embroidery) over your price limit, just so you can see
what the difference in stitch quality and ease of use might be.
You may find you want to go for the used Cadillac. Or you might
want the new basic Chevy. Might as well try both out.

Suggested reading: John Giordano’s The Sewing Machine Book
(especially for used machines), Carol Ahles’ Fine Machine Sewing
(especially the first and last few chapters) and Gale Grigg
Hazen’s Owner’s Guide to Sewing Machines, Sergers and Knitting
Machines. All of these are likely to be available at your public
library.

Used brands I’d particularly look for: Elna, Bernina,
Viking/Husqvarna, Pfaff, Singer (pre 1970), Juki, Toyota

New “bargain brand” I’d probably pick: Janome (who also does
Kenmore).

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